THE BALTIC WAY

Day 1: Welcome to Estonia!

Tere, Tallinn! Welcome to the Baltics and your first country, Estonia. Our team will be eagerly awaiting your arrival at the airport before revealing a world of cobbled alleyways, cathedral spires and medieval fortresses – there’s no searching for taxis here. 

Tonight you’ll meet up with your fellow MagRailers and instantly bond for two reasons – your love of adventuring by rail and for experiencing unique destinations. Swap stories of your past train travels and get excited over a traditional dinner of Estonian eats tonight. You might notice that they like their potatoes – the national dish is mulgipuder, a potato porridge – and the perfect fuel for your first full day exploring the Baltics tomorrow.

Accommodation: My City Hotel or similar, Tallinn – Estonia
Included: Dinner

Day 2: Tallinn

Estonia. A glorious mix of East-meets-West-meets-Nordic. Dive right into this happy clash of cultures today.  While none of that may come as a big surprise, we bet you didn’t expect song to have such a huge grip on Estonian culture. Head to the outskirts of town to see the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds where up to 15,000 singers meet. Estonians once gathered here in secrecy to talk – and sing – about their yearning for independence. 

You’ll also feel the sea breezes in Pirita District, and explore the ruins of the 15th-century convent towering there, with your guide. Winding your way through the graveyard you’ll feel like you’ve literally stepped inside history. The spiritual aura of this place is missed by few! 

Later this afternoon – there’ll be time to snooze off any residual jet lag,  or maybe you’d prefer to get lost along the winding, medieval lanes surrounding your hotel. It’s only day two but we’re not rushing things!

Accommodation: My City Hotel or similar, Tallinn – Estonia
Included: Breakfast

The Baltic Way

In 1989 a peaceful protest took place across Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. Over two million Balts formed a 690-kilometre human chain that connected the country’s capitals and rural villages, all in the name of freedom. This would later be known as the Baltic Way. For 15 minutes, they joined hands, forming a unified front and sending a message to both the former USSR and the world. The event was singlehandedly the largest demonstration in the Soviet Union’s history and culminated in what became known as the Singing Revolution. The first of the three states, Lithuania, was finally free two years later.

Day 3: Train to Tartu

It’s a special morning for the railbuffs! Today marks your first train ride. But first things first, it’s time to seek out Estonia’s rural heritage. The Estonian Open Air Museum is a collection of historic buildings that help to imagine what life was like over a hundred years ago. Tucked in the centre of it all is a 19th-century inn and guess what? This is where you’ll be having a yum-inducing lunch of freshly baked rye bread and roast meat… 

Soon you’ll be catching more countryside views. Estonia’s bright orange locomotives are modern and comfy so settle in this afternoon. It’s just two hours through the countryside to the oldest town in Estonia – Tartu. As you step off the train, be sure to grab your camera. Tartu’s train station and its detailed fretwork are worth a snap. The afternoon is free if you fancy a sauna session at the hotel. 

Accommodation: Hotel Lydia or similar, Tartu – Estonia
Included: Breakfast & Lunch

Day 4: Exploring Tartu

Grab your runners and a quick brekkie this morning. It’s time for a walking tour! Tartu has been around since the 5th century and is known as the ‘International City of Literature’. Discover why with your local guide who will also point out neoclassical architecture and impressive university buildings. 

See the flipside of Tartu’s stately centre by heading to the outskirts of town by private bus in the afternoon. Here you’ll have the opportunity to experience the more bohemian and down-to-earth suburbs. From charming wooden houses in a rainbow of colours to quirky cafes, you might be plotting your move to these cosy neighbourhoods before long! You’ll also get to pop into the Estonian National Museum, a modern architectural masterpiece and a wealth of information on Estonian history.

Accommodation: Hotel Lydia or similar,  Tartu – Estonia
Included: Breakfast

Day 5: Setomaa & Võru

While travelling by road might not be quite as fun as by rail, we just couldn’t skip out on this curious corner of the world! You’re off to the village of Setomaa to witness a remarkable Finno-Ugric culture. The Seto People speak a distinct language and hold tight to their Orthodox customs. But their most important tradition? Song. You’ll get to hear their otherworldly melodies today, stories that have been passed down orally for thousands of years. They’ve even developed several UNESCO-recognised singing techniques. 

Sit down to lunch at a converted farmhouse where you’ll be heartily welcomed by your Seto hosts. Immersion will come full circle through your tastebuds. Sample time-honoured specialities like sõir, freshly pressed cheese, and smelt soup with roast pork. We promise it’s much more delicious than it sounds! 

You’ll land in the lakeside town of Võru tonight. This city was dreamt up by Catherine the Great, so you know it’s a stunner.

Accommodation: Hotel Georgi or similar, Võru – Estonia
Included: Breakfast & Lunch

Day 6: Border of Latvia

It’s another day, another eye-opening culture. Today will be spent in a cloud of steam with the Võro people. Their smoke saunas aren’t just a nice way to melt away stress, but a part of everyday life that is deeply rooted in tradition. It’s also a great way to cook food! You’ll get to sample sauna-cooked goodies like freshly baked bread and smoked sausage. 

As if the day hadn’t already been filled with treats, you’re in for an extra special one this afternoon. Cross the border into Latvia – your second country – and jump aboard the Bānītis Heritage Railway, which in these parts is still a regular train service! 

You’ll be snoozing in the servants’ quarters tonight in a stone manor house – but don’t worry – your rooms are anything but drab and peasantly. Enjoy the property and its ancient apple orchard. There’s a hammock waiting for you to nest down with a good book.

Accommodation: Kārļamuiža Country Hotel or similar, Cēsis – Latvia
Included: Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner

Day 7: Castles, Secrets, & Soviet Bunkers

Castles, secrets and Soviet bunkers – oh my! It’s a day where history collides and what the Baltics are all about. Make for the town of Cēsis where the best-preserved castle ruins in Latvia still stand guard. These noble stone remains and round towers, engulfed in ancient trees, are waiting to be conquered before heading over to the city of Līgatne which hides a few secrets of its own. 

Nine metres below your feet lies a Soviet-era bunker. As if frozen in time, a statue of Lenin still eerily watches over a conference room, littered with giant maps. Everything from radios to air purifiers and a canteen were set up in case of a nuclear fallout. Come up earthside later in the day and be rewarded with a breath of fresh air in the ‘Switzerland of Latvia’, Sigulda. Hop on a quick one-hour train to round out the day and make your journey to the country’s capital, Riga, a breeze. 

Accommodation: Hotel Neiburgs or similar, Riga – Latvia
Included: Breakfast & Lunch

Day 8: Riga

Instead of coffee this morning, take a shot of tradition. If you’ve ever had bitters, well, Riga Black Balsam is the herbal grandmother of them all at 260 years in the making. Nip it back with a hearty “Priēka!”. What a way to start the day! 

With your adrenaline pumping, head out into the city centre where medieval meets art nouveau on a walking tour. Peek inside the dome cathedral, where the world’s largest pipe organ hides in plain sight, and look out over the city’s palette of rusty reds and sea greens from your perch in the spire of St Peter’s Cathedral. 

After an afternoon free, reconvene for a memorable dinner. An old town pub is your meeting spot where the food is as traditional as Latvian folk music. You’ll be joining in by the time the night’s over, making fast friends with both locals and your fellow travellers over a candlelit dinner and song.

Accommodation: Hotel Neiburgs or similar, Riga – Latvia
Included: Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner

Day 9: Liepaja

Can you believe you’re halfway through the trip? Celebrate by weaving your way through the largest open market in northern Europe with a local chef. Pick through seasonal veggies and mammoth jars of pickles before heading to his restaurant where you’ll get to sample it all. This is your chance at a real-deal gourmet lunch that puts all the focus on Latvian flavours.

Your afternoon has no strings attached. Why not visit a museum? After all, Riga is known for its quirky exhibits like the Museum of Medicine or the KGB headquarters. There’s another train journey on the menu for tonight – literally. Grab a dinner box from your guide and climb aboard. You’ll be happily munching your way through the countryside until you come to a halt in the coastal city of Liepaja. Welcome to the Baltic Sea!  

Accommodation: Hotel Art Roma or similar, Liepaja – Latvia
Included: Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner (on the train)

Day 10: A Town of Painters & Poets

Although Liepaja is now a seaside dream, the city was the first place in Latvia to see WWII and the last place to see Soviet troops retreat in 1994. Explore a bit more of its historical significance this morning with your guide and learn how Liepaja went from a fisherman’s hamlet to one of Latvia’s largest cities. Around midday, it’s road trip time! Drive out to an organic farm to learn why rye bread is such a vital part of Latvian heritage. A soul-soother the world over, baking bread is a time-honoured tradition here – and you’ll be lucky enough to learn their secret recipe. 

Seeing Latvia’s most gorgeous town? Count you in! While many of Latvia’s storybook cities were decimated during WWII, Kuldīga safeguards its traditional wooden houses. Take the time to appreciate its ancient bridge, chatty rapids and castle ruins. It’s no wonder painters and poets have been so inspired walking these stone streets. 

Accommodation: Hotel Art Roma or similar, Liepaja – Latvia
Included: Breakfast & Lunch

Day 11: Klaipeda

Before you leave Liepaja, there’s time to explore its dark past – a sharp contrast to the cheerful coastal town you see today. Remnants of a Russian Naval Base built by Tsar Alexander III make up a third of the city. Formerly known as Karosta, this spot might be far removed from most tourist maps but it’s intriguing all the same.  

After a sombre morning, what better way to shine some light than a trip to see some sparkles? This afternoon is dedicated to all things Baltic amber – and no, we don’t mean beer! Whisk through a twinkling concert hall that resembles a giant hunk of Baltic amber before heading to the Amber Museum. You can commemorate your trip so far with a precious piece of treasure – or simply admire these auburn jewels. In the afternoon it’s time to say goodbye to Latvia and hello to your third country of the trip – Lithuania! Nicknamed the ‘Gateway to the Sea’, Klaipeda is home for the next two nights. 

Accommodation: Hotel Michaelson or similar, Klaipėda – Lithuania
Included: Breakfast & Lunch

Baltic Amber

You’ll see it everywhere in the Baltic states, from the snowy streets of Estonia to the shores of Lithuania. A warm, glowing jewel that almost resembles crystallised honey. This is Baltic amber. Renowned for its therapeutic properties and striking colour, amber is the fossilised remains of tree sap – another reason why you’ll sometimes find small insects encased in its honey-coloured glow. What makes Baltic amber extra incredible is the fact that you’re holding a gem that was created tens of millions of years ago! How cool is that? Two massive amber deposits were found in Klaipeda and the Curonian Spit – two places you’ll visit on this trip.

Day 12: Hill of Witches

After almost two weeks exploring the Baltics, it’s time to take an entirely different mode of transportation. A ferry! Hop aboard for your ride across the lagoon to Curonian Spit National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a thin wisp of windswept sand dunes that stretch 98 kilometres south to Russia. Yes, there’s a small Russian exclave on the Baltic Sea, perfectly sandwiched between Lithuania and Poland.  

You’ll trade off sunny, seaside beauty for a spooky, woodland valley this afternoon on a visit to the Hill of Witches. This natural forest amphitheatre has been frequented by locals since the 19th century, particularly for Summer Solstice festivities, for its ethereal feel and imagined connection to the spiritual realm. Step through the pine-shrouded forest, dotted with wooden sculptures of witches, devils, and trolls – all hand-carved by local artisans. Do you have goosebumps yet? 

Accommodation: Hotel Michaelson or similar, Klaipėda – Lithuania
Included: Breakfast & Lunch

Day 13: Šiauliai & Kaunas

You’re off to a pilgrimage site of a different kind today – by train. Make your way two and a half hours to the town of Šiauliai to visit Lithuania’s poignant monument to religious freedom and expression: The Hill of Crosses. Thousands of wood and metal crosses will stretch before you in an almost eerie sea of tangled rosaries and effigies. Under Soviet rule, Lithuanians were barred from religious practice and although the Hill of Crosses was destroyed several times, locals always managed to slowly reconstruct it under cover of darkness.  

This afternoon is a cheerful affair that kicks off by exploring the streets of Kaunas Old Town. You’ll get a birds-eye view from the 1930s-era Aleksotas Funicular Railway, tiny red and yellow boxcars that climb the hill behind town like ants. Wrap up the day with dinner at a local restaurant. There’s no doubt that Lithuanian favourites like cepelinai, and plump potato dumplings, will be on the menu if you fancy something traditional.

Accommodation: Monte Pacis or similar, Kaunas – Lithuania
Included: Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner

Day 14: Vilnius

All aboard for one last Lithuanian train! In a little more than an hour, you’ll arrive in the capital of the country, Vilnius. You’ve seen quite a few old towns so far, but this might be the prettiest. 

Your local guide will lead you through the maze of streets, home to an architectural medley of over 2,000 medieval, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings. Stand in the presence of the ivory bell tower – once the site of an ancient pagan temple – alongside castles and cathedrals with skyward-reaching spires. If you didn’t get your fill of architectural wows earlier today, this afternoon is totally free for you to do what you please. The only dilemma? Where to explore first!

Accommodation: Hotel Central Artis or similar, Vilnius – Lithuania
Included: Breakfast

Day 15: Užupis

A self-declared micronation on the outskirts of Vilnius? That’s just what you’ll discover today. Fuel up for your walk through Užupis, a district where Soviet-bloc architecture meets bohemian. Many local artists call Užupis home and you’ll get a chance to learn about both their art and their daily life in this one-square-kilometre hub. 

The afternoon is for you to enjoy. Take this precious slice of free time to do whatever you like. Try out Šnekutis, a restaurant that crafts its own beer, or Senoji Trebele for traditional Lithuanian tucker. We also wouldn’t blame you if you want to simply enjoy a meal back at the hotel in peace and quiet.

Accommodation: Hotel Central Artis or similar, Vilnius – Lithuania
Included: Breakfast

Day 16: Trakai

Savour every second of your last train ride today. You’re off to a place that’s simply out of a fairytale! There’s no other way to describe the Trakai Castle – floating in the centre of Lake Galvé – than awe-inspiring. Take in its medieval beauty from both the shoreline and its shadows. 

But the real star today is your immersion in the Karaim culture. Once refugees from Crimea, Karaim traditions have been well preserved in Trakai. Wander around the colourful homes with their distinctive three windows – one for God, one for the host, and one for visitors – like you! If that isn’t a testament to Karaim hospitality, you’ll soon be experiencing it first-hand, elbow to elbow with your host making kybyns. These doughy pockets of beef and lamb are drool-worthy but try not to fill up too much. You’ll celebrate the bonds of friendship and your Baltic escapades tonight at a farewell dinner to remember. 

Accommodation: Hotel Central Artis or similar, Vilnius – Lithuania
Included: Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner

Day 17: Farewell Friends!

Can you believe you just spent the last 17 days discovering the Baltics? What a treat! Your adventurous itch for unique countries might be scratched for now, but there’s no doubt that this unlikely region will live in your memory forever. You’ve travelled for weeks as a happy-go-lucky group of rail-travel lovers and we wouldn’t be surprised if you made some lifelong friends. Grab your fellow MagRailers and squeeze them tight one last time before waving goodbye. 

Included: Breakfast